CHAPTER I

EARLIEST RECORDS OF THE ISLANDS THElR DISCOVERY BY CAPTAlN BEECHEY, H.M.S. "BLOSSOM"

 

Mu nin to or Bu nin to are the Japanese sounds for three Chinese ideographs which would be translated "no man island." There can be little doubt that we have here the origin of the name Bonin Islands. Kaempfer, in his classic work on Japan, is our authority for the statement that about the year 1675 a vessel belonging to Japanese was driven by a storm to these islands which, though uninhabited, they found to be pleasant and fruitful and, in default of other name, described as Buninto. This may or may not have been the occasion of their coming to be so called. But this is not the name by which they are commonly known in Japan, nor is the year 1675 the first in which we have record of them, for these same islands are claimed to have been discovered in 1592 by a certain Ogasawara Sadayori, a Japanese warrior under Hideyoshi, to whom they were granted as a fief, so that they became known as the Islands of Ogasawara. That is the name for them to which the Japanese adhere to-day. This warrior chief no doubt did what he could to farm some portion, at least, of his newly acquired island territories, but there were five hundred miles of serious sea separating them from the mainland, and we can quite believe that any Japanese who, induced by a spirit of enterprise, set sail in those early days for these islands, soon found their banishment intolerable and were not satisfied until they were back again in their own country. But there is yet another name for these islands which claims our attention. They figure still on some not very antiquated maps as the Bonin or Arzobispo Islands, and this latter name is evidence that the Spaniards come into their history.

The Rev. A. F. King (now Archdeacon), having already ascertained that a Spanish explorer was reported to have discovered the islands in 1543, and the likelihood being, if this were so, that he had given this name Arzobispo to the islands, was determined to pursue his inquiries on this point further, and, being in London some years ago on furlough, visited the libraries of the British Museum and the Royal Geographical Society. The result of his researches he gives as follows:

"It appears that the Spaniard Ruy Lopez de Villalobos commanded an exploring expedition that sailed from Mexico some time in 1542 or 1543. After reaching the Philippines on August 26, 1543, he sent off a small ship, the San Juan, having a crew of eighteen or twenty men, to explore in a northerly direction. Somewhere about the beginning of October they sighted some islands, which from the description were almost certainly some of the Bonin group. But I am persuaded they effected no landing because they shortly afterwards steered back for the Philippines, and the chief reason given is that their stock of water was not sufficient for them to proceed. If they had landed they could hardly have failed to find a sufficient supply of excellent water. Thus, as far as our knowledge goes at present, to the captain of the San Juan, whose name is not given, must be allowed the honour of having been the first discoverer of the islands, and some fifty years before their discovery by Ogasawara. With regard to the name Arzobispo, however, my conviction is that Villalobos was not the author of it. It must have been given to the islands at some later date by the Spaniards of Manila, for the name appears first in some Manila maps and probably was inserted not earlier than the middle of the eighteenth century. It was afterwards copied into some English maps, and I have seen it in an English chart dated 1800. Exactly when and for what reason this name was given is still uncertain."

The above early notices of the islands are given for the light they throw on the names which the islands have received. Other interesting early facts relating to them might be collected, but it will be enough to say that, throughout the eighteenth century at least, they remained isolated from the world and uninhabited. Their consecutive history only begins after their re-discovery by Captain Beechey in the year 1827; and because this is our true starting point it will be well to give the account of that discovery in some detail.

H.M.S. Blossom, under command of Captain Beechey, was a sloop carrying fifteen guns and a complement all told of 122 men. She had been dispatched from England on May 19, 1825, with instructions to co-operate with Franklin and Parry's Arctic Expeditions. Captain Beechey's instructions were that he should be at Bering Straits in October 1827, the interval to be employed in cruising in the Pacific Ocean. At the close of 1827 the Blossom was to leave for England on her return voyage.

Captain Beechey, having sailed as above narrated on May 19, 1825, rounded Cape Horn, and touching at Tahiti and the Sandwich Islands reached Bering Straits in July, 1826. In October the Blossom, failing to meet Franklin, left Bering Straits and proceeded to San Francisco, where she anchored on or about November 6. On December 28, 1826, Captain Beechey sailed from San Francisco and again visited the Sandwich Islands, proceeding from there to Canton and Macao, at which latter place he arrived on or about April 30, 1827. After a brief stay the Blossom again set sail, making for Loochoo, and in due course, some time in May 1827, she anchored off the town of Napha, the capital of those islands.

From here Captain Beechey took his departure on May 25, and shaping his course to the eastward he reached on the evening of June 7 the situation of the Bonin Islands as marked in Arrowsmith's chart in use at that time. The following day, the 8th, no land was in sight, and Captain Beechey was on the point of giving up the islands as having no actual existence, when, after a few hours sail to the eastward, several islands were seen extending in a north and south, direction as far as the eye could discern. These were the Bonins. A full account of the Blossom's visit is found in Captain Beechey's narrative, published in two volumes.

The Blossom anchored in Port Lloyd on June 9, 1827, having first attempted to fetch the southernmost group; but finding wind and current against the ship and discovering in the nearest land an opening which appeared to give promise of a good harbour, Captain Beechey made for this and anchored in Port Lloyd, to which he gave this name out of regard to the then Bishop of Oxford.

Captain Beechey was much surprised to find here two Europeans who turned out to have been two of the crew of the English whaler William, which vessel had been wrecked in Port Lloyd some eight months previous to the Blossom's arrival. The name of one of the men was Wittrein; that of the other is not given.

According to the statement of these men it appears that after the wreck of the vessel the crew set to work to build a small schooner in order to find their way to Manila, as the chances of their being picked off from Port Lloyd were somewhat remote; to their surprise, however, a whale ship, the Timor, appeared, and took off the crew of the wrecked vessel with the exception of these two men. Wittrein and his companion.

The Blossom remained at Port Lloyd for six days, and the time was fully taken up with surveying the harbour, excursions in the immediate neighbourhood, and with circumnavigating the island. To the island in which Port Lloyd is situated Captain Beechey gave the name of Peel Island, in compliment to Sir Robert Peel, who at the date of the departure of the Blossom from England was Secretary of State for the Home Department ; and to the other two of the cluster he gave the names Stapleton and Buckland, the last mentioned after the then Professor of Geology at Oxford. A large bay at the south-east angle of Peel Island was named Fitton Bay, after a late President of the Geological Society; whilst a bay to the south-west angle of Buckland Island was called Walker Bay, after Mr. Walker, at that time one of the officers of the Hydrographical Department.

To the southern cluster of islands Captain Beechey gave the name of Bailey, after a former President of the Astronomical Society; but they are equally known as Coffin Islands, from the name of the master of the American whaler Transit, who must have been an earlier discoverer of them.[1] Captain Coffin, of the American whaler Transit, landed on the South Island in the year 1823. Not the whole island, but only the principal bay, was given his name, Coffin Bay.

To the northern group Captain Beechey gave the name of Parry, after the former Hydrographer to the Admiralty.

Captain Beechey has pronounced Peel and surrounding islands to be volcanic in their nature, which is borne out by Commodore Perry of the United States Navy, who visited the islands in 1853 and writes of Port Lloyd as follows: "It would appear that Port Lloyd was at one time the crater of an active volcano, from which the surrounding hill had been thrown up, while the present entrance to the harbour was formed by a deep fissure in the side of the cone through which a torrent of lava had poured into the sea, leaving after its subsidence a space into which the waters subsequently were emptied, bringing with them their usual deposits, which together with the coral formation now forms the bottom and sides of the harbour."

In a letter of Captain Beechey's to Dr. Buckland at Oxford, he states that he has named the central island after him from its peculiar geological formation and the existence of a cave of basaltic columns, closely resembling that of the Giant's Causeway.

After leaving Port Lloyd on June 15, Captain Beechey made another attempt to reach the southern group, the Bailey or Coffin Islands, but finding the wind adverse he bore away to the north and fixed the position of the Parry Group.

Before leaving, Captain Beechey affixed to a tree a sheet of copper nailed to a board, and on the sheet of copper the following words were punctured:

"H.M.S. Blossom, Captain Beechey, R.N., took possession of this group of islands in the name and on behalf of His Majesty, King George, the 14th June, 1827."



[1] See also chapters vi and vii.